Masterful Reproductions

David Anderson

Cabinetmaker David Anderson writes: This is a reproduction I made that closely copies one of the dozen or so desks made by noted Annapolis cabinetmaker John Shaw in about 1795 for the Old Senate Chamber. I made some minor variations - I seem to remember that the original had only a single draw pull, but I preferred two. On the original desks, the scalloped gallery at the back had an ivory oval mounted at the center with the individual Senator's number engraved thereon. There is none on my copy. Honduras mahogany, with rubbed shellac finish.

David Anderson - Cabinet Maker
903 Brandenburg
Cedar Hill, TX 75104
Telephone: 972-291-2796
FAX: 972-291-4004
fdander@attglobal.net

James Luck writes from Severna Park, Maryland: In his book “American Furniture Treasures” Lester Margon called this Hepplewhite sideboard one of the finest examples of American furniture design in existence. The original was made by John Shaw, a cabinetmaker of Annapolis, Maryland in 1797. It is now in the Baltimore Museum of Art.
I was allowed to photograph the sideboard and, on several occasions, to take some measurements to supplement construction plans that I already had. This was quite helpful as the plans, while basically accurate, deviated from the original in several areas.
The completed reproduction, shown at right and in detail below, is an almost exact copy of the original. Except for the back, bottom interior partitions and drawer interiors, it is made of Honduras Mahogany. Straight grained and crotch mahogany veneers, used on all door and drawer fronts, were chosen to match the original as closely as possible. The most difficult task, by far, was constructing the individual inlays seen on the front. Except for the rectangular borders surrounding the large ovals on the left and right cabinet door fronts, each inlay had to be made up from individual pieces by hand.
Orange shellac was used for the finish for two reasons: first, I believe this was the finish used on the original, and second, orange shellac on a dark mahogany highlights the natural color and texture of this wood and gives a warm tone finish. I applied 5 coats of thin (1 pound cut) shellac to build up to the final coat and to partially fill the natural open grain of this wood. The final coat was rubbed down with pumice stone in oil and then rottenstone in oil. Paste wax was then applied and buffed to give some protection to the finish.

James Luck

Left Cabinet Door: Straight grained mahogany veneer on the outer sections of the door contrasts with the crotch mahogany center. The oval inlay is made of crossbanded satinwood bordered by thin holly lines. Holly was also used for the inlay lines on the front four legs.
Corner Brace and Lower Rail Detail: The inlaid fan is made of shaded satinwood. I darkened the edges of each of the six fan sections by heating a shallow container of sand and scorching the edges to add a sense of depth to the assembled fan. The lower rail is inlaid with alternate triangles of holly and mahogany. Horizontal borders are ebony and holly. Over 250 separate pieces of wood were put together to form this inlay piece.

Sideboard Upper Corner: All door and drawer edges were bordered with holly strips as shown here. I had to form the curve on the edge of the sideboard top by hand as I could not find a cutter bit or plane with the same curve as the original. I used a standard hand plane to make successive cuts at increasing angles to approximate the curve and then sanded smooth. Quarter round molding was made up to fit under the extended edge of the top.
Center Door Detail: After gluing up the inner zebrawood oval sections (using oversized pieces), I made up a template to use as a guide in cutting the inside and outside curve of the oval. Next, I glued up and cut out the outer holly and ebony oval in the same way. Three thin holly strips were used to separate the two ovals and border them. The strips were soaked in water and formed to approximate shape using a hot bending iron and then glued to the assembled ovals. The mahogany veneer for all doors and drawers was applied first and the oval inlays were then added as a single piece. The completed oval was used as a guide in cutting a channel (inlet) into the mahogany to insure a good fit. Clearances for brass keyholes were then cut into each door/drawer front.

Center Section: - The large center door opens to expose the three smaller drawers shown here. I suppose they were used for knives, forks, spoons, etc. Each is fitted with a small brass knob and holly inlay strips are used for accent.
Small DrawerDetail: The hand-cut dovetails joining the drawer fronts to the sides are approximately the same dimensions as the original. Note the small size of the “pin” portion of the dovetail (the mahogany part) as compared to the tail section. This type dovetail was characteristic of many old pieces of furniture.

Back of Center Door: Although not part of the original, I inlaid an oval, cut from holly veneer, into the back of this door. The border of the oval is a thin ebony strip which I soaked briefly in water before bending to shape on a hot circular pipe. I used a small router with a very fine bit to etch the words which were then filled with a paste mixture of mahogany sawdust and glue thinned with water. A scraper removed the excess paste after drying. Note the construction used for this door. Each door was made of three pieces of mahogany - the narrow outer pieces and the large center piece. This type construction minimizes expansion and contraction of the door due to changes in humidity (the two outer pieces constrain the center piece).The back of the brass lock is seen on the right. Each was chosen to duplicate the original as closely as possible.
Large Door Front: The mahogany center was cut from the same veneer sheet as the door fronts. The rectangular border surrounding the center veneer is made of stripped cherry. The brass knob drawer pulls are the one major deviation from the original which had cut glass knobs. It would have been almost impossible to duplicate them. The thistle pattern I used was suggested by Mr. Berry (of J. William Berry & Sons) as characteristic of John Shaw, who was of Scottish descent.

Corner of Large Drawer: Detail of cherry frame around mahogany center can be seen here. I sliced this wood from a wild cherry log I got from my mother-in-laws farm. Strips were cut approximately 1/8 inch thick and hand-planed down to 1/28 inch. Width is about 1/4 inch and is surrounded by thin holly bands.
Large Drawer: Dovetails on this drawer are also like the original. All drawer bottoms are of pine. I used old, wide planks which my father-in-law had obtained a number of years ago. He got them from a sawmill where they had laid around for many years. Grooves were cut into the inside of each drawer front and side. The bottom fits into this channel.
Large and Small Drawer Sides: Dovetails in the drawers can be seen in more detail here. All drawer sides and backs are made from poplar ( I believe the original used it also). This wood is of uniform grain and lends itself to detail work, such as dovetails, much better than pine. Pine has contrasting grain hardness between early and latewood growth which makes it difficult to work cleanly with a chisel.

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